Food: The Joy of Mexican Cuisine in London

Ask any American their opinion on Mexican food and they’ll wax lyrical about the stuff – Mexican restaurants overtook hamburger joints for popularity in the US in 2014 – but most of it is a hybrid version of the real deal. The UK is just the same.

So consider this: Mexican food is so integral and important to its home country and the rest of the world that it’s the only cuisine protected and listed as a UNESCO cultural heritage. You can’t say that about a pie and mash, eh? There’s clearly much more to Mexican cuisine than Old El Paso and Wahaca – and it’s all on your doorstep ready to be discovered.

Birria

Mexican food has influences from Spain, Africa and its own indigenous tribes, and it dishes differ hugely across the country.

Birria comes from central Jalisco and just the description makes your mouth water. This spicy stew is made by marinating meat in a mix of spices including chilli, paprika, oregano, salt, garlic and vinegar. Birria is commonly served with onion, lime and tortillas and the bright red result is as hearty as it is delicious.

London’s best birria can be found in Dalston at the Mezcal Cantina. Its spicy Birria de Cordero is a twist on the traditional with brilliant results; slow-cooked lamb shank is marinated in Mexican beer, chilli, cinnamon, ginger and garlic. It’s served alongside beans, rice and tortillas for a serious birria blow-out.

Chiles Rellenos

This dish comes from Pueblo in southern Mexico. A green poblano pepper – named after the city – is stuffed with minced meat, cheese and spices, then battered and fried. It is served with tomato or salsa for the perfect lunchtime treat.

Chile relleno is also ideal for vegetarians as it can be easily adapted. There’s a great version stuffed with quinoa and cheese at La Bodega Negra on Old Compton Street but if you’re looking for a crowd-pleasing array head to Euston.

Mestizo‘s chiles rellenos will keep meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans happy as they come with either beef, Oaxaca cheese or the unusual Mexican ingredient flor de calabaza – pumpkin flowers.

Molcajete

Molcajete is a stone pestle and mortar that’s also used to serve food. These bowls are heated in an oven or fire and filled up to keep the food warm. Stone stays hot for a long time, allowing diners to take their time over a meal.

Molcajete dishes are only limited by the chef’s imagination. Usually they will contain the typical Mexican elements of beans, vegetables, chilli, spices and meat but everyone has their own take.

Mestizo triumphs again as its molcajete is a house specialty and a fantastic family-sized feast. Two or more people can choose between chicken, beef, both or a vegetarian option.

The molcajete is served in the traditional bowl with cheese, chorizo, spring onions, coriander and the all-important avocado. That’s then topped with your choice of salsa and accompanied by tortillas.

Antojitos

What’s internationally recognised as Mexican food is mostly street food. Antojitos, or “little cravings”, are available from street stalls across the country and include ceviche, tortillas, burritos, enchiladas, nachos, quesadillas and tacos.They’re delicious and downright addictive.

Excellent antojitos are available across London but Lupita and Cafe Pacifico are both worth a mention and a visit. The latter’s antojito platter allows you to try a bit of everything while Lupita makes it tough to choose between delights like Tuna Tostadas and Carnitas Street Tacos.

Not all antojitos have the worldwide recognition they deserve. Elote is Mexico’s answer to corn on the cob. Corn is chargrilled and seasoned with lime, salt, chilli and cheese. Find this tongue tingler at the aptly named pop-up Elote, which appears each week outside Kings Cross station.

Chilaquiles are the love-child of tortillas and nachos: corn tortillas are cut into triangles and fried before being topped with salsa or mole sauce and simmered.

Once that’s liberally topped with beans, eggs, meat, cheese and guacamole you’ve got a medley made in Mexican heaven. Try Kensington Cafe’s chilaquiles, which feature all the above and the option to add sausage, pulled pork or soyrizo.

Tlayudas are an iconic dish of southern Oaxaca and they’re much like pizzas. A toasted or fried tortilla is smeared with a refried bean base then loaded with salsa, lettuce, avocado, shredded meat and cheese.

All that is grilled to perfection and cut into pizza-like slices. Breddos Tacos in Clerkenwell offers three takes on tlayudas. A traditional black bean and avocado and two fusions that have to be tried to be trusted: curried potato and char siu pork. Take a friend and try them all.

 

by Jo Davey

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